settling? Concrete holds water for the entire life so it’s not going to matter. Seems like it would, if the foam is that hard and in direct contact with the concrete. It might come in handy for us, ya never know. It will run out below the foam and into the drain. Thanks for your help. they recomended that I use there 2″ foam board that has a green and a foil side. I assume you’d install 1-1/2″ of foam before the 1×2’s correct? The paper is facing up because the floor above used to be the “warm” side if your basement was unheated. I will probably need to use Barricade subfloor tiles unless you recommend another way. – If you want to improve on the system I would recommend 1-1/2″ of foam board against the exterior wood, then fiberglass. Tim – For starters I wouldn’t recommend finishing a basement that has the chance of 2 feet of flood water. However, many times we are able to stand up the foam, tight fit it top and bottom (occasionally put a dab of spray foam on the back to get the panel to stick), the tape seams. I am down for the weekend and this stuff is like less than half price compared to our stores…robbery up in Canada! I pulled off ALL the drywall and insulation and cleaned the walls (spotty mold, not too bad). Unfortunately the only thing I can recommend is removing the fiberglass and fixing it. 1. I like the Owens Corning or DOW products. Polyiso is better suited for exterior wall applications where you can also take advantage of the foil faced covering for radiant. Should this space be closed with insulation all along the top of this space or is that what you mean by “dead air space”. I suggest you consider using foam board (which we’ve written about quite a bit on this site) as an alternative that’s DIY friendly. Is that true? Online-Einkauf mit großartigem Angebot im Software Shop. I can tell you that we built an auto dealership several years ago, at the time the code official allowed us to use 1/2″ OSB on a wall to cover insulation in lieu of drywall. I started to install fiberglass batts, but I decided to put 1/4 inch dow XPS behind the studs to keep the batts from contacting the concrete. Good luck. My question is can I leave that in place and install the XPS foam on the lower 4 feet of the concrete wall and seal it to the insulation with a thin section of vapor barrier and tuck tape. (Answer; Costly option but gets cold here and the living and dining room upstairs are covered with doug fir and transmit noise like a drum.) I have an interesting question. Stuart – Sounds like your builder did a great job. You can definitely drywall over that so long as the sheets are up tight and secure to the 2×4’s. Congratulations for fixing the outside problems first! Below are a few thoughts on your situation. I plan to dig up around 2 sides of the house, possibly all 4 if it makes sense to just do everything if I’m already doing 2, what’s your opinion on that? Deal with any issues you may have outside. Todd – You can use Great Stuff Pro – It’s a spray foam adhesive in a can and it works very well. 4. First off you need to think of your concrete (or block) walls as a huge sponge for moisture (water vapor). Hi Todd: I have completed insulating the walls with Dow Styrofoam and have the wall insulated with Roxul 3 1/2″ Batts on 16″ centres. Sound advice. However, if you want to be really conservative many people like to use Moisture Resistant or Mold Resistant drywall in their basements. Be SURE it has a proper underlayment placed under it. If I choose any which one of these products, do you think i dont need to put OSB/plywood over them? Al – That method won’t really work. What type of formaldehyde free foamboard do you redommend? 3. Any good? Have you moved recently are about to move? Must I leave a 1″ air gap between the foam and studs if I use 1.5″ or 2″ foam? Does that change your advise? 2. That does make sense. I would certainly remove the fiberglass (another good resource for Canadians is Holmes on Homes, he does a great job with foundations up north). The builder of the home used unfaced fiberglass bat insulation within the stud cavity with an additional poly vapor barrier stapled over the framing and insulation. Rose – Thanks for the nice compliment. I assume I should not leave them bare even though the outside walls of these rooms will be insulated? Does it make a difference which way I install my rigid foam board against the concrete? Could I have your thoughts on this approach? Since I am not planning on replacing the whole wall, what I’m hoping to do is take down the bottom course of drywall, and cut the damaged firring strips off. and the same 7/16″ OSB on top of that with maybe some cheap laminate later on. Also does it matter what type/brand of drywall to use for a basement? I expect much of this might be due to limited airflow with concrete block walls, concrete floor and a concrete ceiling. Probably should mention that I live in Iowa. I just found your site and have to say how impressive it is that you dedicate as much time as you do to it and your thoughtful responses you give. If the foam has a paper type facing then that’s a problem. Is it necessary to remove everything and install 1.5″ foam unto concrete wall and reframe and insulate? I’m nervous to tap con them through the new concrete that was poured over top of my interrior french drain because the concrete isnt that thick. When the framed walkout wall is spray foamed I’d have them spray foam the two walls “together” for a bay or so to create a good transition. 2) Between the studs I wanna insulate with Roxul R-15 can this go right up against the foam as well, and with this all being said do I need to do a vapor barrier? If not where should all that trapped moisture go? Apparently, the foam isn’t adhering to the wall. I always size the foam based on worst case, the exposed concrete. My question, I get what I need to do for the walls, you have covered that to great extents and those who ask questions are thorough enough I am good with it, however, What should be done first, the walls or the floor? Any information would be greatly appreciated since I keep reading different opinions on the internet. There are several similar house tapes available, some are read, but they are all pretty similar and they stick VERY well to foam board. Is there a good way to transition from the insulated concrete to the uninsulated concrete? Maybe it's time to refinish your deck or add some new decorative touches to your tired deck. I just want to be sure I can use your application before I proceed. Not sure I know what your question is about the decking though? How do you suggest we handle the water pipes? Walls are poured concrete ranging from 9’tall stepping down to a walkout. It just didn’t sound right to me. 3. Lower level walls are filled cinderblock masonry with paneling over studs and fiberglass batts. Most of our products are covered up to 90 days. I hope this helps, be sure to check out our Facebook Fan Page, LIKE us, and you’ll get lots of great DIY advice each time we post a new article. I have glued 2″ Foamular 250 to my concrete walls and taped the seams with Tyvek. What are your recommendations in my case? Couple things, one I really recommend you change that R13 and install foam on the rimjoist. No need for a vapor barrier. I plan on adding heat to the basement, already have a zone set up. What I currently have is drylock, 1″ foam (with plastic), 1 inch gap, and 2×4 stud wall. Can you help clarify? I have two questions: 1. Do NOT use plastic. All three of those options are obviously pretty much perminent after the are put up. Good luck. Why is that important? Then a studwall with insulation. 2. No spam. I appologize if this was covered. Many thanks for such helpful advice. No offense but many of the folks working there just don’t have the proper experience and this is one of those situations. The concrete portion is bare, obviously, but the wood portion is insulated with faced batt fiberglass. The easiest answer is to read through the comments for several questions/answers that address that question depending on the insulation that you use. I’ll definitely subscribe to your newsletter. Thank you for your service. Will I encounter problems if I apply 2″ polystyrene foam board below the foil insulation? At any rate you have a couple options. http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/foam-board-insulation-values/. sewer lines run horizontal against them? Question #2: The wall in question is a short, 6’long bathroom wall and it would be possible to slip a sheet of poly between the stud wall and the concrete. Jeff – If you leave the fiberglass I can pretty much guarantee you will get mold. DO NOT use poly in the basement as it will create a double vapor barrier with the foam. Should I build the wall out before the french drain is (approx 10″ from the wall) or am I ok starting the wall right on top of the concrete covering the french drain pipe? The house has poured concrete basement walls (except for the studded walkout wall)with sealed foam board (foil style showing) on all concrete walls except for the wall that is shared with the garage above. Do i need a vapor barrier in front or behind the stud wall? Please help with advice please, I have a 1900 old home (semi) with stone foundation, mostly below grade with about 2 1/2 feet above. Thanks, Todd. * My next question is 1.5 inches of foam board against the block wall, and r-11 insulation between the studs to much insulation that I could possibly be over insulating my walls causeing them to sweat? I have a couple of questions for you. It will still transfer the cold temperatures of the concrete. Keep the lower at 60 and live upstairs with 68-72. I live in Pgh and purchased a home with a finished basement. would be appreciated. @ Rich – I wouldn’t worry about living space air getting into the air space. So we thought it might be a good idea to clear up some of the confusion. What would you suggest is the best way to go about doing this? I am in the middle of my project and unfortunately I already installed 3/4″ XPS (glued to concrete) and framed my walls with 2x4s before reading this article. I will have to get specifics and let you know. I have a 6 year-old walkout ranch style house in Nebraska with no history of water in the basement. Basement is a walkout on one side, one side has grade sloping up and the other two sides are completely below grade. 2. 2. Hi Todd! I know it’s open to the soil below, because bugs get in, and a little moisture, but not much. 15 years is a good run! The vapor barrier must be either closed cell spray foam or a minimum of 1-1/2″ (2″ preferred) of XPS foam board. Are you going to frame a wall? Thanks. I don’t think I need the additioanl insulation value a fiberglass-inside 2-4 stud wall would provide. Frankly I think I’d just leave it alone and think of it as similar to a window. In fact, the more water it holds the stronger it gets as the chemical reaction that happens inside concrete will continue to happen for years. It’s not an approach I would do in my home but it’s certainly better than fiberglass. I think I know the answer but anothe ropinion always helps. 地域最安値・激安なタイヤ専門店・タイヤ交換をしているビーラインのコーポレートサイトです。安く・早く・丁寧を信条としています。タイヤの点検・ホイールの事など何でもお気軽に。専門知識を持ったスタッフが丁寧にお答えいたします。パンク修理無料キャンペーンも実施中。
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